PURPOSE OF FOLK CLOTHES ON THE EXAMPLE OF WOMEN'S MERCHANT COSTUME OF THE KURSK PROVINCE

НАЗНАЧЕНИЕ НАРОДНОЙ ОДЕЖДЫ НА ПРИМЕРЕ ЖЕНСКОГО КУПЕЧЕСКОГО КОСТЮМА КУРСКОЙ ГУБЕРНИИ

Лебеденко Элина Вячеславовна

студент, кафедра российской истории и документоведения, Белгородский государственный национальный исследовательский университет,

РФ, г. Белгород

ABSTRACT

The purpose of this article is to provide an overview of the folk costume on the example of the female merchant costume of the Kursk province of the XVIII century. The article also provides general information about the features of the costume of the XVIII century.

АННОТАЦИЯ

Целью настоящей статьи является представления обзора на народный костюм на примере женского купеческого костюма Курской губернии XVIII века. В статье даются и общие сведенья о особенностях костюма XVIII века.

Keywords: women's merchant clothes, features of the costume of the Kursk province, details of the costume of the 18th century.

Ключевые слова: женская купеческая одежда, особенности костюма Курской губернии, детали костюма XVIII века.

Speaking of the costume of the eighteenth century, one cannot bypass the reform of the costume of Peter I. As we know, after the Great Embassy, Peter Alekseevich began to actively implement the ideas that he had outlined during his trip to Europe. Thus, among many spheres, culture was also affected by Peter. And this concept includes the daily existence of the inhabitants of cities and villages. It should be noted, however, that the transformations were of a specific class character. It was from these reforms that such a big difference became noticeable between the nobility and the main mass inhabiting the Russian Empire. January 4, 1700 Peter Alekseevich signed an order according to which the townspeople and nobles were forbidden to wear traditional Russian costume. Instead: “for men, a short close-fitting caftan and camisole, culottes, long stockings and buckled shoes, a white wig or powdered hair, a shaved face; for women - a wide frame skirt, a tight-fitting bodice (corsage) with a deep neckline, a wig and high-heeled shoes, intensive decorative cosmetics (blush and white).

Thus, we can say that European "dresses" forcibly replaced traditional clothes, but in addition, the new clothes of that load, that information did not contain. New ideals and concepts were presented to the population. The main theme in clothing now consisted in ostentatious sophistication and elegance. In the Petrine era, the nobles were guided by the Dutch and German fashion, bringing their fabrics, copying their patterns and finishes.

Women's merchant costume of the eighteenth century.

The style of women's merchant clothing. Noble influence in women's costume was more noticeable. Shoes were worn only with heels; the headdress began to resemble a turban. The wives of merchants wore mostly their usual clothes, but added European elements (shoes or a headdress). Casual wear is a skirt or sundress, and a peplum jacket was worn on top. In winter, they wore a fur coat made of fox and squirrel skins.

By the second half of the 18th century, the range of fabrics had increased significantly. The most commonly used now began to include silk, wool, cotton fabric. Men's camisoles were sewn from nanke, and summer women's dresses were sewn from muslin. Pink, lettuce, lemon and mother-of-pearl are added to the dyes. Black is associated only with death. It was not fashionable to combine different colors in a suit. Colors of a different spectrum of the same shade were displayed. So brown was presented in the range from: “new flea” to “old flea”, there was also “Paris dirt”, this color was very, very popular. By the beginning of the 19th century, dark colors dominated in clothes, as did halftones.

If we are talking about the ornament, then here you can see the "Russian heritage" of the folk costume with its floral motifs. Blossoming branches of bushes and trees prevailed in the works of craftswomen.

Merchant costumes in the Kursk province. There are three types of costume: with a pony, with a sundress, with a skirt. In the Kursk province, a sundress was most often used in everyday wear. In the clothes of the Kurchans, common Slavic, South Russian motifs were clearly visible (this includes a shirt with "poliks", women's hats with horns, etc.). Common to the Eastern Slavs is the color of clothing - it is mostly dark. The influence of Ukrainian culture in clothing also distinguishes the Kursk province from others. Interesting in my opinion is the fact that in the Russian costume of the Belgorod region, details borrowed from the Ukrainian folk costume survived much longer, when the Ukrainians themselves began to change into all-Russian costumes of the urban population.

Ritual clothing. Wedding clothes for a girl are mostly a sundress. The costume of departure to another world is a festive costume, sometimes for a wedding. In some areas of the Kursk province, special slippers for funerals were sewn - “kuligulki”.

Hats. The most ancient and most famous headdresses are: magpie and kokoshnik. The horned kokoshnik is a bow to antiquity, which goes back to totemic beliefs. So in the culture of Russian totemism, the “heavenly Elk” is known - the creator of all things, personifying maternal care.

Outerwear was represented in this province by all kinds of zipuns, plane trees and fur coats.

By the shoes of a Kurchan, it was possible to determine his ethnic and social affiliation. So the Ukrainians wore only leather shoes with laces. The Russians were shod in bast shoes, sometimes you could find this type of shoes according to the Moscow model - oblique weaving. Russian women used leather shoes extremely rarely, only if it was adopted from Ukrainian women.

Jewelry is a special layer of folk costume. It was usually represented by glass beads and ornamental stones; were popular on the territory of the current Belgorod region, jewelry from coins "monisto", and beads "cushion", "soul warming". Crosses and amulets on ribbons were also part of the decoration.

References:

1. Горожанина С.В.  Зайцева Л.М. Русский народный свадебный костюм. Из собрания Сергиево-Посадского историко-художественного музея-заповедника- М.: Культура и традиции, 2003. -129 С.
2. Зайцева Л.М. Народная художественная культура Белгородского края— Б.: Белгородская областная типография, 2020. — 132 С.
3. Машкин А. С. Быт крестьян Курской губернии Обоянского уезда // Этнографический сборник. -1862. - Вып. 5. – С.1-119.
4. Чижикова Л. Н. Традиционная женская одежда русских в Белгородской области //Институт этнографии, ролевые исследования. -1977. –С.9-18.